Trip Report
book of job (photo essay)
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Tuesday May 21, 2013 3:40pm
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this is an excellent 5.10- on higher cathedral, that is in the shade for most of the day. if you like steep with a bit of wide climbing you'll love this one. 6 pitches, we ran the first two, and the forth and fifth together. on the last pitch traversed over left to the "blinded by the light" and did 4 double rope raps to base of brail book(might be able to do these with 70m??? or 80)
edit: we rapped blinded by the light, and alexey said he was able to do the raps with an 80m
nice to have doubles plus 2-#3 1-#3 1/2 1-#4 camalot
thanks to my buddy steve for talking me into doing a quality route other than new dimensions
mctwisted
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About the Author
mctwisted is a climber from el portal. |
Comments
mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Author's Reply
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May 21, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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May 21, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
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Awesome! Thanks for the stoke. Been looking at that thing for years and meaning to do it. Somehow it always gets put off for somthing else. Gotta remedy that soon.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Author's Reply
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May 21, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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May 21, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Excellent!
+1 to Elcapinyoazz's comments.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 21, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
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Hey are you guys climbing on double ropes? Must be European or something. BTW looks like a great rout with a lot of interesting wavy/buldgy features.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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May 21, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
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Great pictures Dan,there is some wide there aye.2 ropes?
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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May 21, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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Nice Dan and Steve ! Thanks for posting. Been wanting to do that one.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 21, 2013 - 05:37pm PT
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What a nice looking climb, and it sounds like you had fun. I loved the photos of your partner (or you?) working through the stem/widish section. There just aren't enough photos of people chicken winging on Supertopo! Way to find a little adventure and I assume solitude in the Valley.
Thanks!
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Some Random Guy
climber
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May 21, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
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hey was that you i ran into at the top this past saturday? i asked you about the rappel as you were about to go down. nice work. i'm eying that route.
There just aren't enough photos of people chicken winging on Supertopo!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 21, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
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"Shall a multitude of words go unanswered..."--the Book of GOOD JOB
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OR
Trad climber
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May 21, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
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Nice post ! Mr Way talked me into doing that thing 20 years ago and I remember being very hard to convince. Turned out to be a fantistic climb. Steep, airy and funky polished rounded rock in a very cool corner. Very cool spot in the Valley.
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On-Site Flasher 69
Sport climber
Riverside
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May 21, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
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I did the first two pitches of this last spring with my buddy rich after mistaking it for braille book. I have been wanting to go back ever since to finish it up. We bailed off two nuts after realizing we were off route. I remember a huge pile of excrement at the start of the third pitch. kinda bizarre. Awesome photos guys! Thanks for stoking up the sike.
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RyanD
climber
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May 21, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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Wow ! The rock looks a may zing up there. Good stuff, thanks!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 21, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
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Can't help but yearn for that line while looking over from the first few of the NEB. It just looks so killer, and these pics nail that home.
How's the pro? Bomber! ha ha ha.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 22, 2013 - 02:42am PT
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looks like you had fun!
great trip report, thanks
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 22, 2013 - 07:58am PT
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Nice pictures and great memories for me. Mark Chapman and I did an early ascent of “Book of Job” after Jim and Rik freed it. I remember leading what was probably the crux pitch and just cruising along when I realized that the climbing was getting harder and the protection not automatic. While I cannot remember the climbing per se, I have a very distinct memory of having to shift gears and pay more attention. Nice route. The rock on that upper buttress of HCR is very interesting, from “Book of Job” to “Braille Book” to “Blind Man's Bluff” on the outer face.
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mountainlion
Trad climber
California
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May 22, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
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Kick A$$ trip report--I noticed the #5 cam wasn't looking sweet though you guys were no doubt SOLID!!
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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May 22, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
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TFPU
I dig it!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 23, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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Nice report Dan, thanks.
Any "Braille-Bookers" in front of you in the line for Book of Job?
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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May 23, 2013 - 06:15am PT
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Very nice,
Looks like your wide fetish led to some serious punishment...:)
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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May 23, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
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Very cool, thanks for sharing
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susu
climber
East Bay, CA
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May 23, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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Nice Dan, looks great! Tfpu!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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May 23, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
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A very cool looking Valley obscurity . . .
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 30, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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Want to do this now!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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May 30, 2013 - 01:37am PT
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Cool. Why is the rock formed like it is on this route (which I haven't done) and Braille Book? It's different than most other spots in the valley. Though by the time you walk way up there you are barely in the valley any more!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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May 30, 2013 - 01:52am PT
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cool colors
thx for taking us along
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 30, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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Always wondered what went on up in that feature: thanks for the looksee Dan!
IIRC Yabo on sight soloed the rig.
'Nice to see you out climbing: keep 'em coming.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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May 30, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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Good Show, thanks for posting this.
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Nov 22, 2013 - 08:07am PT
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BUMP for Mc.Happy Holidays Dan,et al.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 22, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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Beautiful photos......brings back memories! Actually i've compltetely forgotten the climb except for the fact that the crux was baggy and steep.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Nov 22, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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F*#kin' Aaaayyyy!!!
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Nov 22, 2013 - 02:16pm PT
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that looks very cool - I even think I could climb some of those cracks!
Maybe not the chimney though.
Steve
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 22, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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Great essay. TFPU!
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