Trip Report
five. tens
Saturday February 25, 2012 4:34pm
my actions stamp out my words,

started out on fingerlock, 5.10b
this route had previously sent me flying,
i was anxious to dispend it,
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fingerlock at sugarloaf
fingerlock at sugarloaf
Credit: Norwegian
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fingerlock at sugarloaf
fingerlock at sugarloaf
Credit: Norwegian
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Credit: Norwegian
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on to self abuse, 5.10b squeeze.
this is a hassle to rope solo, my style,
for i stack the rope on the heart side of my body,
and thus my slack coils are stuffed into the chimney and
im always stepping on them and giving myself tension,
sheesh.
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Credit: Norwegian
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Credit: Norwegian
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passed the added anchors (soon to be chopped)
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Credit: Norwegian
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mi amour. who gave up all her errands
to accompany her lunatic husby up and outing,
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Credit: Norwegian
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now i've assulted a .10 finger crack and seduced a .10 chimney,
what's up? .10 mixed face crack.
the stone. 5.10a R
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Credit: Norwegian
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Credit: Norwegian
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stoned-on-up-the-road nowt o the
fracture, 5.10d

with this route i've achieved my most difficult lead, rope solo.
this one was all about smooth system management as to conserve stamina.
i sent,
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the crux
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fracture at sugarloaf
fracture at sugarloaf
Credit: Norwegian
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lastly we rock hyperspace, 5.10b.
cool undercling moods,
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hyperspace at sugarloaf
hyperspace at sugarloaf
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hyperspace hyper yphyer hypersace perhypersac
hyperspace hyper yphyer hypersace perhypersac
Credit: Norwegian
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my good gal who sang wine wind to me
all day, she's all.
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Credit: Norwegian
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Credit: Norwegian
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Credit: Norwegian
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feliz a.
may the stone inspire us further.

  Trip Report Views: 2,357
Norwegian
About the Author
Norwegian is a trad climber from dancin on the tip of god's middle finger.

Comments
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 25, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
Hell Yeah Weeg, that was bad Azz rope soloing 5.10R. Wow, thanks!!!
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
  Feb 25, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
Hi Norwegian,
Funny, I was flipping through the photo gallery and saw these pictures and was trying to figure out what all the rope was about. It looks like your doing some fairly ballsy trad stuff and I appreciate what your doing. How come you don't use a conventional device like a soloist? I learned how to lead climb on one and they're fairly straight forward. Anyway, your really climbing and it takes skill and heart to free climb with a solo device and it backs up your comments well, unlike half the crap posted on here.
splitter

Trad climber
Somewhere South Of Heaven
  Feb 25, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
Awesome!

Looks friggin rad, its/they(tr)got a little bit of everything on them.

Kudo's!!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Feb 25, 2012 - 06:35pm PT


Credits to the photographer, too. I guess when you don't have to belay, it's easier to get photos. I like the zoomed in shot on the Fracture (with your butt cropped off) where you can see the double-up stoppers. They don't have draws on them, which I rarely do, but I guess in soloing without the rope running up, you're less likely to pull them out?

Sparky

Trad climber
vagabond movin on
  Feb 25, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
Very nice! TFPU
couchmaster

climber
  Feb 25, 2012 - 08:30pm PT
Nice to see pics of sunshine! It rained hard on and off all day today here:-)

Thanks!
AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
  Feb 26, 2012 - 12:34am PT
Nice photos! That might inspire me to go climbing, except Anchorage is in a blizzard warning, and I'm shoveling snow about 7 feet over my head out of my driveway.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:19am PT
Great job! Always passed on fracture thinking about how the hell do people lead that, now will be thinking about how the hell did you rope solo that! awesome shots of you climbing all too! TFPU!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:27am PT
Very nice! Your solo method impressed me, but I've got to stick with my tried and true Silent Partner (with back-up knots, of course!) for soloing free climbing.

In any case, thanks for posting -- and thanks to your faithful wife. I assume she was also the photographer, correct?

John
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:28am PT
Good shots, awesome that you soloed all those routes.
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:50am PT
Yo Weeg! Five five tens...one of my dreams for the loaf! Sometime we will do seven or eight but it doesnt really have that nice ring to it...five five tens.

By the way ImplicitD is a math teacher in Idaho.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:56am PT
am i missing the bible code in here that tells me where this is?
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Feb 27, 2012 - 11:58am PT
Weegie is a MASTER at the self belay with his SILENT PARTNER.

Even Shipoopi made a comment on how "Worked" his device looked at J-tree this year.

Bunch of punters are always wanking about his loop method, but then they aren't sending.

Bravo Brother!
wstmrnclmr

Social climber
Air B&B Town, USA
  Feb 27, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
Ah... so it is a soloist. I couldn't suss from the photo's. Norwegian, can you tell us why it's easier for you to coil the rope instead of letting it hang and knotting? It also looks like your not using a chest harness....Also, no climbing partner? I learned to climb on the soloist because no-one to climb with at the beach. Great job man!
Killer K

Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
  Mar 1, 2012 - 11:41am PT
Big ups dude! Self abuse is a bear on TR. Always have wanted to do the fracture since you can sew it up. Maybe see ya @ the Loaf someday.

K-
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