Trip Report
margaret lake, kirkwood lake, shealor lakes (and the rocks nearby)
Thursday September 4, 2014 9:38am
the full version of this tr with more words and pictures can be found on powdork.com

for the last several weeks we've been exploring the rock walls surrounding some of the off the beaten path lakes in the kirkwood area. among these are kirkwood lake, margaret lake, shealor lakes and old camp bluff near silver lake.
we started off with a day trip to margaret lake. i had been there before just after i started climbing so i knew there was potential but wasn't aware of any development.
last time i was there (august 2012) it looked like this

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fast forward 2 years and we came back armed with a rope and a full rack. turns out the rack was just extra weight since walking to the top there were several sets of bolts lining the ridge. that worked out well since the hike in took longer than expected and work was looming on the horizon. once the top rope was up we started climbing.
jasmyn went first

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followed by skylyn working her way up the corner

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and finally they let me climb. this would have been an uncomfortable lead since there was no pro between the top of the corner until the top except for an uncomfortably flexy pinnacle that could be slung

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then it was the dogs turn for fun as they showed us their new synchronized swimming routine

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the following week we took a camping trip to kirkwood lake. in addition to excellent rock, kirkwood lake has a rope swing.
jazzy takes off innocently enough. nacho is behind stoke

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but nacho jumps in early and she lands on him (you can see him just under her kneee).

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do not like do not like!

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the next day we headed to shealor lakes. i've lived in tahoe for 20 years now and had never heard of shealor lakes. but recently on the way to work we stopped into sports ltd and dan k. mentioned some climbing in the area. we were late for work and missed some details but we figured we could find it.
after a wrong turn or two we did find it. but naturally there was some 'nature' involved.

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after a little more 'do not like' the pups were excited to be on the ledge.

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obviously, jasmyn was excited too

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ashley says "i'll take the sharp end"

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clipping

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the 4th bolt was where we all got stymied

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so we top roped from there

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here's a view of the zone. the red represents our route and there are a couple bolted lines to the right as well. i tried soloing up the yellow line to go around and set up a top rope but the rock got super slick and i'm a giant wuss. down climbing with my pack was super fun though (do not like)

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then we hit shealor lake where the doggies played careers. stoke was so excited to finally become assistant branch manager we didn't have the heart to explain he was assistant to the branch manager.

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lots of reasons to come back

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that afternoon we made our way over to the wall behind our camp site at kirkwood lake. we found this last year but i wasn't leading much at the time so i wanted to get back

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jasmyn follows. this has one of the coziest belay stations around

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line #2 on top rope

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jazzy looks up the chimney

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on the arete after the chimney

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this tr is brought to by speakeasy's double daddy (do like)

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#hashtag

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the next day it was off to old camp bluff. the water tower marks the start of the short approach

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look mom, no hands

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jazzy making it look easy

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ashley too

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our final route of the trip

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thanks for looking

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  Trip Report Views: 5,966
i'm gumby dammit
About the Author
i'm gumby dammit is a sport climber from da ow.

Comments
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:42am PT
Looks like some great cragging, thanks.
lars
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:48am PT
Damn. Nice rock y'all have out there.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:53am PT
Looks like an awesome time! I wish I was into climbing back when I lived in Tahoe for a bit :(

Oh, and you forgot to bring this one over from the blog so I'll help:
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Sep 4, 2014 - 09:53am PT
Great TR. thanks for sharing.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 4, 2014 - 10:02am PT
good stuff.


paging Dr. Dingus, your patient is waiting in the Kirkwood operating room.


Doggggiieeeeeeeesssss!


le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 11:29am PT
TRs with dogs: 10+
TRs with borderless pics: 10++
TRs with rope swings into lakes: 10+++
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
  Sep 4, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
Like!
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
Powdork bringing the summer stoke to ST!

We spent last weekend at Lake Kirkwood. So much fun rock and a great hang. Lots of low angle, discontinuous climbing but super high quality rock, easy approaches, and plenty of fun. We did find some limited route development over the hill and through the woods but generally, it felt like everything we got on was super fresh. Oh, and the lake. Yes.

Looked like there were some great lines down in the canyon but we never ventured that far out.
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
that area at shealor is called the breakdown area, todd o and jobe put those up a few years back. theres another area right across from there that stays shaded all afternoon! weve been at it for awhile there, headn out monday, me and chim, come on out! i think you'll like it, its called the garden wall. later
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
^^^
What a couple of downers.

Nice TR, Gumby!
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
All righty, that was almost as fun as the real thing.
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
  Sep 4, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
In other words...THANK YOU Ron Anderson for leaving out of the guidebook you can hardly find anyway!

I'm with DMT...it is magical when you can just explore.

Now pls nuke this thread Powdork!!
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
  Sep 4, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
Sorry, DMT. Master of literal, here.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Author's Reply  Sep 5, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
that area at shealor is called the breakdown area, todd o and jobe put those up a few years back. theres another area right across from there that stays shaded all afternoon! weve been at it for awhile there, headn out monday, me and chim, come on out! i think you'll like it, its called the garden wall.
the tall shady wall that you're facing as you approach breakdown?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 6, 2014 - 08:52am PT
Beautiful spot, doesn't get any better than that!!!!
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Author's Reply  Sep 6, 2014 - 09:14am PT
?
the czar

climber
meyers, ca.
  Sep 6, 2014 - 09:45am PT
not that one, to the lookers right....
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Jul 28, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
After a short stint at The Poodle Wall (hurr,hurr) we drove down the road and hiked out to The Garden Wall near Shealor Lakes good stuff. Needs some traffic a bit mossy in spots.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 28, 2015 - 11:09pm PT
Such a great TR, gets my mind humming again.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Author's Reply  Jul 28, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
We went and looked at the poodle wall recently too. then turned and went back to kirkwood lake
jonnyrig

climber
  Jul 28, 2015 - 11:43pm PT
Nice to see you and the fam getting after it. Your website's neat too. Keep at it.
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Jul 29, 2015 - 06:21pm PT
Sorry Mr. Brock, The Poodle Wall is a bit dirty...but will be "worthy" very soon. Glad yer gettin' after it. Sash
crankster

Trad climber
No. Tahoe
  Jul 29, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
New favorite thread!
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Sep 4, 2015 - 08:23pm PT
So Milt and co. went out to the Poodle Wall this week... The Unmitigated Augdacity was bolted and led. A sweet 5.11, 4 draws and a few pieces of gear 1" to 1 /1/2' and A bolted anchor will be installed in a week or so. For now a natural anchor is necessary (2) #3 c4's and (1) #4 c4 above the finishing ledge where a strange conglomerate projectile was deposited on the edge of the granite monolith. A long cordelette is necessary. Frank did a great job at snaking AK28's flash, F.A.. Sash
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Author's Reply  Sep 5, 2015 - 12:03am PT
^That's awesome. Didn't mean to make poodle wall sound unworthy. It was our lack of time, confidence, and ability that kept us from climbing there that day.
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Sep 5, 2015 - 08:45am PT
Dirt is dirt Gumby! Wasn't offended in the least. Two more routes to do there. Will keep you informed. SAsh
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Sep 5, 2015 - 09:03am PT
I missed this fun TR first time around. Glad it's back.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Sep 5, 2015 - 09:14am PT
Great TR! An area I know nothing about!
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
  Sep 5, 2015 - 10:20am PT
Thanks fun area and not used much.
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Sep 5, 2015 - 10:20am PT
Loved this TR--thanks for the great photos and witty descriptions!
sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Sep 5, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
After a short stint at The Poodle Wall, Milt and co. went out to The Garden Wall at Shealor Lake. AK-28 attempted the first onsight of Power Player,(see earlier post) a modern Salazar master
piece. No go, great work though. Needs to be flashed for consensus on the grade. Sash
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 6, 2015 - 01:24am PT
Wow ! ~NoCal ~ R00Lzz<B^D
( Whistle )schweet
looks awesome-fun
very fun write up
' love the dogs and dogs dogs swimming sharing the stick !
Then this looked sort of similarin a Minnie me sorta way

all right no resemblance
Grreetings from small rock hell. Below is the start of the crux of right trending crack 'fear size' finger locks, to jams to a fist stack around the corner.

Thanks for this excellent TR It put a big smile on my face! This did it again, made me want new ankles !
I always want to go !








sasha Cohen

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
  Sep 15, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
Looks fine to me Gnome... keep up the good work!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Sep 16, 2015 - 09:53am PT
Thanks for bumping this TR. I was away from civilization when this was posted last year, and it was buried by the time I got back. I hope these bumps allow more climbers to enjoy this excellent TR and trhead.

John
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
  Sep 16, 2015 - 10:51am PT
Thanks for those awesome photos DMT.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 16, 2015 - 11:28am PT
Dingus, don't try and sell those ratty Boreals on ebay. I'm onto you. LOL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOREAL-Ballet-Gold-Climbing-Shoes-UK-10-US-11-Classic-/171935215448?
Go