Trip Report
west face of the Leaning Tower
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Saturday June 4, 2011 1:44pm
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Studly
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About the Author
Studly is a trad climber from WA. |
Comments
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Very cool Studly.
Relaxed, with a ledge collapse for good measure.
GET SUM!!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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great job. thanks
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The Larry
climber
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Cool video! Looks like you guys had a grand adventure. Nice to see Opdyke in the valley too. My big wall mentor.
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
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Nice!! Thanks for sharing.
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Great Fun
Thanks for the share
Bob
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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great work men!
congrats!!
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Nicely done!
You do know there are two good bolts at the far end of the P10 ledge? You use the old bolt just as a directional...
What's the story on the ledge flipping? Updrafts?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Author's Reply
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Jun 8, 2011 - 01:47am PT
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Thanks all, we had a blast! The story on the ledge flipping is that I should not have set the ledge up at the top of pitch 7, but should have continued another 50 feet to the next set of anchors where the ledge would have hung better. because at the top of 7 it is kind of slabby and the ledge doesn't set very well but I didn't realize at the time the other anchors were there. On top of that Scott had never been in a portaledge before. He got his daisy across the ledge buckle as we were sorting gear and opened up the buckle, and thats when its flipped the first time, no big deal except he shock loaded the anchors impacting onto his daisys, yikes. We both then set the ledge back up in the dark but he didn't tell me his end was on a ledge of rock instead of resting on the strap. After being asleep for about a hour and in my sleeping bag, I rolled over a bit and heard a scraping noise and then the next thing I know the ledge flips inwards and Scott is on top of me. Sheesh, crazy in the pitch black trying to find your headlight and get things sorted out. After that we got it set up ok, but never a dull moment with the Plaidman!
Moof, I saw those anchors but aren't those the top anchors for Wet Denim Daydream? They are a long ways away for hauling on, another 20 feet horizontally from where I was. The cams are bomber in that crack I used, or those anchors are what I would have used.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Wyoming
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TFPU. What a goodnatured team! Unusual view of the great Harding route. Good on you guys!
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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A clearly superior TR. Took me back to when I suffered up it in 1975.
I have wondered what condition the dead pine tree: that you had to crawl up, to clip the first bolt, was in.
It looks like a dead-stick: in this video.
While I was watching this TR:
My hands got sweaty,
and I am going to have nightmares tonight.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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this TR is a success it got Fritz good! heh :)
cheers,
M
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Two hacks having fun and not posting enough pictures TR!!!!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Nice! TFPU!
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MBrown
Big Wall climber
The Eastside.... UUUUHHHHHHH!
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Nice work! Thanks for the video!
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Plaidman
Trad climber
West Slope of Powell Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Aug 28, 2011 - 05:44pm PT
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That was a great trip. We did well enough we want more. No more flipping the portaledge though. That about gave me a heart attack. After the second time I just laid real still not moving a muscle waiting in the dark. Really didn't sleep. I was glad to get up and start climbing where it was safer.
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couchmaster
climber
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Aug 28, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
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Here's youse dudes:
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Plaidman
Trad climber
West Slope of Powell Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Aug 28, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
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Thanks Couchmaster. Yep that's us struggling up the wall. That 9th pitch with the wild roof was awesome. I had to re-aid most of it. It was cool just ape-ing around, yarding myself with my arms and with two adjustable daisys. The exposure was spectacular. Loved every minute of it.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 28, 2011 - 10:33pm PT
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GUD job you blokes!
Thanks for sharing this.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 28, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Nice send! Ya ready for the Big Stone now?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
West Slope of Powell Butte, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Aug 28, 2011 - 11:27pm PT
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Studly named the video "The Good, The Plaid, and The Ugly". I was all three of those things on the climb.
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