Sugarloaf Ridge State Park |
Bay Area Bouldering, California, USA
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Approach time: 5-15 minutes
Season: Year Round Number of problems: 50 Type of rock: Volcanic and Schist Overview
Sugarloaf has been called The North Bay’s Castle Rock. Although it’s nowhere near as good in quality or quantity of bouldering to its South Bay compadre, the park does have a similar vibe. Well-maintained trails embraced by redwood forests lead you to almost every boulder in the park. The boulders are a mix of three different types of rock. The first type is a solid pockety volcanic and is the most common. Second is a softer knobby volcanic that is found at the Lower Canyon Trail Boulders. Third and least common in the park is schist. The boulder problems are on varied angles from short and steep to high and slabby. Notable Bouldering Problems
Buttercup V3 or V4 dyno, Trailblazer V2, Suga V2r, Sugar Smack V2, Pyramid Arete V1-V2, Fifth Element V5, Neptune V6/Neptune Direct V7, Booger Finger V2 or Sugar Booger V3, Booger Traverse V4, Nose Picker V4 sit, Chatterbox V2 sit Photos
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 Val and Holly Hike Canyon Trail. Photo: Chris Summit
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