One Eyed Jack, Canopy World 5.10d X |
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Tuolumne Meadows, California USA | ||
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Avg time to climb route: 30 minutes
Approach time: 1-1.5 hours Descent time: 1-1.5 hours Number of pitches: 1 Height of route: 100' Overview
FA: Ed Barry, Tom Herbert, 1985A great toprope, this extremely runout route defines the difference between old-school and new-school ratings. If it were bolted today, there would be tons more bolts and the rating would be closer to 5.11d than 5.10d. Ed Barry is one of the many little known strong California climbers, who 12 years after doing this route did the second ascent of Übermensch (5.14a) at Pinnacles. From the anchor of Kill Pickle, a directional can be set with tricky tiny micro-nuts at the ledge. Use great care setting this directional – if it fails the climber will be dropped a bit and will pendulum to the right. Climber Beta on One Eyed Jack
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 Photo: Sarah Felchlin
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