Loco Yokel, Medlicott Dome, Left 5.10d
Avg time to climb route: 2 hours
Approach time: 30-40 minutes
Descent time: 1.5 hours
Number of pitches: 4
Height of route: 520'
OverviewFA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Jonathan duSaint, September 2007.
Burly, technical dihedral to a long pumpy lieback. Steep, powerful, and tenuous climbing up the initial dihedral is tightly protected with bolts and gear, and then a lieback with thin gear leads to a flake lieback pumpfest with bolts once the gear runs out. If lowering from the first pitch, itís a couple feet longer than half a 60m rope. If continuing, the belay is basically a hanging belay and a butt-bag is nice.
The second pitch starts with thin moves that ease quickly to a cool, knobby, airy arÍte that is the left arÍte of the entire mile-long face of Medlicott.
You can just barely rap with a single 60m rope Ė tie knots in the ends.
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