Avg time to climb route: 5 days
Approach time: 20 minutes
Descent time: 4 hours
Number of pitches:
29
Height of route: 2700'
Overview
Son of Heart is best known for its esthetic, imposing chimneys that can be easily seen from the ground. But, contrary to rumor, you do not have to be a chimney guru to get up this climb. The Kirkaguard Chimney, midway up the route, surprisingly requires only thirty feet of 5.8 Chimney climbing and offers a spectacular, hundred-foot 5.10 hand crack. This route offers plenty of free climbing (mostly 5.10 or C1) and moderate aid climbing and is a good alternative to more crowded trade routes. It is more difficult than Triple Direct, the same difficulty as The Shield and easier than Mescalito. Due to an overblown wide-crack reputation, you can expect to have this route to yourself - a rare opportunity on an El Cap line as classic as this. Nearly all of the aging and rusty bolts were replaced by the American Safe Climbing Assn. in 2001.
Climber Beta on Son of Heart
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Son of Heart
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Son of Heart
| Source: SuperTopo Guidebook Staff |
Last update: November 1, 2014 |
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Up the right side of The Heart. Photo: Chris McNamara
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