Jimjub
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Climbed this on Saturday. Amazing route with plenty of great pro and super fun climbing. We stuck to the 'A' route and managed to pass 2 parties by breaking down the climb into 7 pitches (seems counter intuitive but it worked). The highlights for me were the 5.4 hand crack on P1 and the 5.6 hand crack on pitch 5 (which was actually pitch 6 for us)
The crux was getting in to the Chimney (I am 6'3", 220LBs). My strategy was to treat the first 10 feet as an of width crack, using the face on the right hand side for feet until the chimney widened and I could climb inside.
I would recommend breaking the last pitch into 2 to reduce rope drag and leading around to the left of the summit block and climbing up the double cracks, listed on the Topo as 4th class (this is also the part you will down climb from the summit so can potentially leave your gear placements for the down-lead depending on how far behind the next group are). I originally headed straight up but this way seemed a little more exposed with no pro.
We did not see any need to rappel on the decent. Simply zig-zag down 3rd class ledges until you reach the notch on the east side. From here you join a very obvious staircase decent back to the base. We actually linked Eichorn's Pinnacle which I enjoyed more than Cathedral itself - will post beta separately. Took us 12 hours car to car with the link up.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Just did it about a week ago. It was fine. We rapped down a snowfield but could have picked our way down without rapping. I'm sure by now it's totally fine
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Nicole O
climber
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Does anyone know current snow/ice conditions for the route and descent?
Much appreciated!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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you can look at the Webcam
http://www.yosemiteconservancy.org/webcams/high-sierra
[Click to View Linked Image]
no snow from this aspect... I'm going up high this weekend and the forecasts are for warm temps (much much higher than 32ºF/0ºC) so I'd expect no snow
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patacap
climber
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Anybody know about the current ice/snow conditions on the route?
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Climbon123
climber
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Hi All,
Climbed this a couple weeks back - great climb, first multipitch route for me.
Found a ring (wedding?) with a pattern on it stuck in a finger crack - if it's yours send me an email docladd@gmail.com and i'll be happy to mail it to you.
Cheers and happy climbing,
David
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looks easy from here
climber
Santa Cruzish
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On Wednesday 5/27/15 descent was a little snowy, but approach and climb were clear.
Only peek I have of the north side:
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Matt's
climber
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Vitaliy-- as of monday-- tenaya had lots of snow. Cathedral route looked dry, but backside descent looked snowy. Sorry no beta on mathes.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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How is the snow up there now? A ton of new snow or what? Anyone done Cathedral, Tenaya or Matthes this past weekend or this week?
Thanks!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California, now Ireland
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It's true, there are a number of variations.
My late brother Mac and I did it in 1973, unroped, though we had one.
I free soloed it in 1976, smoked half a joint on top (when I did that, haven't touched the weed in years), bloody great view. Then went and did the North Face of Eichorn Pinnacle (5.4) finished the joint on top and down climbed, stoned and scared as hell.
In another thread on the Taco Stand somebody, Donini (?), Guido(?), somebody, said that most climbers don't like down climbing, I particularly do not, but since I have downclimed some 5.10s and 5.11s that I could not tackle the crux for one reason or another, I am not a bad down climber, and gutless to boot.
IMO, the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral has got to be on everybody's tick list, if it isn't, put it on your tick list. And Eichorn Pinnacle, some day I will do the West Pillar of Eichorn (5.9), roped of course.
The views are fantastic from both Cathedral Peak and Eichorn Pinnacle.
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OjaiClimber
Trad climber
Ojai, Ca
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Thank you so much. Maybe I should wait until a little later in the season to head up.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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I took these photos yesterday, May 4, opening day.
[Click to View Linked Image]
Tenaya has quite a bit of snow at the base.
[Click to View Linked Image]
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OjaiClimber
Trad climber
Ojai, Ca
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Looking to do the Tenaya, Matthes, Cathedral link up next weekend. Any snow to worry about?
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dmayers311
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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just did this route (again…yesss) yesterday nov 18. a bit chilly but awesome. trail easy to follow, and there are a couple raps off of trees to descend which was awesome; had anticipated walking off.
funny thing happened though on the drive out to the east side. apparently is was supposed to snow last night, and we got locked inside at the tioga caltrans gate (not the park gate…a ranger opened that one for us)…for 6 hours! no cell service…what a nightmare! didn't anticipate that one haha
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Stewart Johnson
Gym climber
top lake
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please dont climb here anymore.
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pvalchev
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Did W Face of Eichorn two weekends ago - the descent will have snow, a foot or two at most - not a big deal but a bit chilly. (it doesn't really melt there, this time of year)
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Reedkrause
Trad climber
Loma Linda, CA
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Anyone know the conditions of Eichorn pinnacle right now? has snow made the descent treacherous or ice in the north face route up the pinnacle? Thanks! Its really important for me to know!
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mslaysh
Trad climber
Marina, CA
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Any thoughts on the conditions right now? I think I'm going to charge up this baby again on Sunday given that it's been a few weeks now since the last snow and that the route faces south-ish.
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Brian Bauer
climber
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This is the second half of the route taken from our walk back down to the car. 14 people on the upper half, on a thursday, when Tioga pass was closed from traffic coming from the west. Crazy crowded...glad we woke up early. Great route though!
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fishtrap
Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
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Woland, No snow on the approach right now, tennis shoes will be sufficient.
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Woland
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Anyone knows how much snow there is on the approach? Will boots be needed or can I get by in sneakers?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Only a fool can expect solitude on Cathedral in June. Oh wait, that was squishy...nevermind.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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So so crowded...avoid this place in June!!
There was countless rude parties on the routes, all criss-crossing, yelling, dropping stuff, learning to pull trad gear. To be honest, this route was not one of the more enjoyable routes I have done in Yosemite, I enjoyed the mountaineers route much more.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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After almost 40 years of climbing in Tuolumne, I finally climbed this route two weeks ago. It is a really excellent outing.
Bit of a stroll getting back there through very nice country.
We started on the left and climbed the obvious 5.4 handcrack. Then more or less straight up a corner crack system taking the beautiful knobby face halfway up. Then up the corner to the left side of the long ledge from which the chimney takes off. The cracks to the left of the chimney are an excellent alternative to the chimney. Pretty much straight up from there. Don't miss the summit! It is incredible. No bolts in July 2012 on the summit, but it is 4th class up that final block.
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harmonydoc
Trad climber
Rohnert Park, CA
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Climbed this yesterday 7/15. We started somewhere around the C route, didn't follow the topo, never ran into anything that felt harder than 5.6. Never saw the chimney, think we stayed to the right of it. Did climb past a pair of rusty bolts somewhere on pitch 3. Topped out in 5 pitches, just before 3 other parties. Thankfully the storms stayed to the north (could see the rain off in the distance). My second time on this, what an awesome climb, worth doing more than once! Descended the slabs toward Cathedral Lake and cut through the woods to hit the John Muir Trail instead of the usual descent on the Budd Lake side; this took us a really long time (especially as we were tired and moving slowly by then).
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Erin Kim
climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Lost: My friend's right shoe, Vasque women's size 8 hiking boot. Greyish green
Lost: 1 Panasonic Lumix DX-3 digital camera
Lost: my mind
On descent of the backside of Cathedral Peak, 16th June 2012.
Thank you!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Conditions report: only a tiny bit of snow on the approach. Descent looks clear.
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Aerili
climber
Project Y
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Condition report: as of 10/30/11, trail, route and descent are still dry and in prime condition. We had to cross three steps of icy snow on the descent, but otherwise things were complete perfection.
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pell
climber
Moscow
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Take a couple of walkie-talkies to the climb. Communications with your climbing partner could be difficult due to a lot of parties simultaneously shouting "on belay!", "belay off!", "climb on!" etc.
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norma r
Mountain climber
Ventura County
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Tahoemnts2, 9/3/11 was empty in Cathedral terms. Talked to friends who did it the next day with 1.5 hr waits at belay stations even though climbers were all over the place. They said there were at least 40 climbers at one time on the SE butt. And yes, i did see Alex.
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jfailing
Trad climber
PDX
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Did this a month or two ago for the first time - stupendous! At the same time, most crowded route I've ever been on. Thanks to the many variations, we only had to wait at the top for a party of three, and had a great sunset once they were gone.
A piece of beta for those looking for it: you don't need to bring a backpack!! When you hike off the top, you end up back at the base anyways (unless of course, you plan to not return to the base).
We saw a couple that were wearing what looked to be 50 pound packs - sleeping pads and all - preparing to have an epic. The girl was having a total meltdown, screaming at her boyfriend and everything. It seemed absolutely pointless to do this! Have fun and go light... er.
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tahoemnts2
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Climbed this on 9-3-11 for the 3rd time. It was our easy day after the NE Butt on Higher Cathedral. I've never seen so many people on one climb at the same time. It was pretty entertaining, but still fun. We passed 4 parties and about 10 people. Everyone looked like they were having a blast...that's what counts. I would recommend wearing a helmet regardless your level of climbing on this route...you never know what's gonna come wizzing down from above...hint.
I think I'm learning Czech now from all the Czech commands I keep hearing yelled out on the routes. Do all Czechs climb?
Was told by another climber that Alex Honnald was spotted on the route that day. I should have got some solo tips when I was up there. But then again, since I got married, I did vow to never solo again...oh well;)
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Stewart Johnson
Gym climber
top lake
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please dont climb here anymore.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Yup, wescrist, I think that is the 5.7 var. I took last time I was there. There were two pitons there actually as I remember.
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Mtbphoto
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
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Climbed this for the first time on July 28th
*No snow
*approach was a lot easier and well maintained than expected, cut off the main trail earlier than we should have, but ended up finding the trail 5 or 10 minutes later. Just follow within a few hundred feet of the creek and you will run into it sooner or later.
*Climbed the "B" and "C" variation and has a lot of fun. Did the 5.6R knobs section a go, I didn't think it was too runout at all, and it was fun.
*The "C" variation to the right of the chimney was confusing on the topo, felt more like 5.8 in the corner, its offwidth, and didn't see any pitons (the 5.7 corner may have been the next corner over, but it looked thin.
*About 8 or 10 parties on the rock made the last pitch take almost 2 hours, although we weren't in any hurry and broke the pitch up 2 or 3 times.
*Mosquitoes were bad at the base and the hike out, and for some reason, there were a few on pitches 4 and above.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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A quicker, wilder, less rope-draggy, and still easy alternative to the topo finish (which is going around left and up the "fourth-class" cracks you will descend by down-climbing) is just to go straight up and over the block in front of you; hidden behind it are more blocks for an easy and secure path across to the summit.
The giga-pan below is really cool. Try clicking the link to view it in Google Earth.
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davidji
Social climber
CA
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@Robert: I was up there a week and a half ago. Less snow than I expected. I've been there when I had to rap over snow on the west side to get to the descent. This time there was little snow on the west side (at least getting to the standard descent).
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Robert
Trad climber
San Mateo, CA
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anyone climbed this route yet? is it doable?
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fat-n-sassy
Social climber
San Francity, CA
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Too much snow now. Stay away.
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russellg
Sport climber
Malibu, CA
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Has anyone been up there since they opened Tioga? Any problems getting off the summit with snow still there?
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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Great route, we climbed it in four pitches on a 70m rope. Lots of people on the face but it's incredibly easy to pick another line to the top. To top it all off, we had perfect weather and no mosquitoes.
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schaffner
Trad climber
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Tons of mosquitoes right now on the approach and the base. We could have easily done the route in 4 70m pitches, but ended up doing it in 5 because of some miscommunication. Belay ledges are everywhere.
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Found a pair of climbing slippers dropped on the descent - call me for return - 4 one 5 six one 3 nineteen eighty three.
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Byrner
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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 Missing photo ID#130806
I printed out the topo for the SE Buttress the day after climbing and added some thoughts fresh from my experience. Love the route. For some reason, I approached it thinking that everything backed way off past the chimney--I guess the beefy ledges stuck in my head from my first climb last year and not the fun, steep sections--but I was a bit off in my memory. Either way, the route is super exciting all the way through. One thing I would stress to those that get sketched at the top is that the 4th class swing around left is not bad and actually SUPER fun. I almost enjoyed those moves more than making the step.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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I got this beta from a supertopo user
To respond to one of your previous emails, the time quoted for the approach to Cathedral Peak was similar to what we experienced. I think we were a bit surprised though by how long and consistently uphill the approach was with the long scramble at the end to reach the base. The combination of the steepness and the altitude left us a bit tired by the time we got to the base. We are relative novices when it comes to high alpine routes though so in retrospect it should have been obvious that in order to climb a 700 ft. route on a near 11,000 ft peak we were going to have to gain some altitude from where the trail began under 9,000 ft. Either way we had a great time climbing the route. I couldn't believe the number of parties starting the route late in the day with thunderstorms looming!
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Toreador
Trad climber
York, UK
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Wish we'd read the new approach info before we left, we ended up half way to Cathedral Lakes and had to bushwack through the trees for a mile to get back on route. At least it meant that the pair in front of us were already climbing by the time we arrived!
Took the 'C' approach for the first pitch (by mistake), then the standard line. This seemed to give a more consistently graded route, all pitches 5.6, would recommend this. Climbed Eichorn Pinnacle afterwards.
One of the best climbing days of my life.
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Tom Johnson
Trad climber
Guerneville, Cal
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Lost Camera - Sat, Sept 22, on or just below Chimney Pitch. Probably nestled in a crack somewhere. Silver colored Pentax. If found, please contact Tom, 707 565-3167. Thanks
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