I suggested that someone get rid of this route because it is the most contrived route I've ever climbed (still true, four years later!). It also has too many bolts, but that's a different issue.
It uses super-tight bolting to try to force you to climb the hardest part of the slab, even when easier climbing is only a few feet left or right. The only reason anyone ever climbs this is an approach to hobbit book.
This is a fun route and a good way to get to the Hobbit above. Yes, it is very well bolted. But wishing that someone would "chop it" is arrogant and inconsiderate of climbers who might like it. Variety in routes is good. Not all routes need to be risky. The photo shown on this website is not correct for this route. Look at the book for a better description. Mostly this route is edging on somewhat slippery knobs. Climbing up beats walking up.
As I said in the description, "easily the most contrived route in Tuolumne."
I gave it one star as a 10c and 2 stars as a 5.8A0. Don't know why it's listed as 5 star here. But the position and scenery are 4-star regardless, on a big apron of granite leading right up to Hobbit Book.
The snow field can be HUGE after heavy winters. I've been turned around by snow in that area both early and very late season (November a few years ago trying to get up to Nazgul Wall).
Climbed this route on 6/7/2013. This is a great option for a quick approach to Hobbit Book and a way to get in 4 additional pitches of climbing. When you top out it's about a 2 min scramble straight over to the base of HB.
There was a pretty good amount of snow coming up to the base and it was pretty steep and a little sketchy in worn out trail running shoes. I wonder what this looks like on a normal snow year. We got an early start so it would have been fine by 9am or 10am once things warmed up a bit. The snow cone put us pretty high up on the first pitch and we easily linked pitches 1 & 2 w/ a 70M rope.
Pulling through the 10.C crux on pitch 3 is super easy. Will post a TR and a few pics later.
OZ continues up and left to the summit while the Gram Traverse follows the roof out right.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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