Fultonius
climber
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We climbed this yesterday 25/09/16 with a 60m rope. Mount Proj describes a huge "leaning block" at the base which we didn;t see...
P1 - we did a 35m pitch to the first big ledge.
P2- then a 25m pitch to the ledge below the 5.9/5.10 finger crack, stopping short of the sling belay below the 5.10 crux pitch.
I would say it should be possible to run our first 2 together with a 60m and stop at the lower ledge; however, this makes Pitch 3 a big pitch so you need a decent variety of gear.
P3. I stretched this from the previously described lower ledge, past the 5.10d crux (mainly footwork required), past the roof and uo to a small ledge around 5m above the roof. One of the better belays if you still have enough pro to make one...
P4. Partner climbed to an awkward stance at the start of the undercling trav. Not such a nice belay but...
P5....it meant I had no rope drag. The traverse is not "scary" as described in mountain proj. Steady as she goes. I found the crux of this pitch to be higher up the crack.
P6. Is annoyingly harder than it looks and if you have the tight shoes one for the crux, a bit on the unpleasant side!
All in, great route.
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TBone
Boulder climber
santa barbara, ca
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This is my favorite route in Tuolumne. A perfect rock climb. 5 pitches is better, but the route is at least 800 feet tall... not 600. There is still a big mound of snow at the base, but you can scamper up this in rock shoes and then it's cherry from there.
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Lucas
Trad climber
Goleta, CA
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We brought along a #3 and #4 camalot, but the #4 turned out to be completely unnecessary (the upper wide crack where one can place it is trivial and you can get a good #3 in right before it). Next time we'd probably just take a single #3 and doubles of everything else, with maybe more extras in the small sizes.
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spyork
Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
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I climbed the expando flake variation on Pitch 5, after I bumbled the roof undercling traverse and backed off. It was quite airy and felt runout.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Isn't that where Uh-Huh and Uh-Uh goes?
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slobmonster
Trad climber
SF (via NH & CO)
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Has anyone climbed --or knows the identity of-- a route ~40 feet left of Lucky Streaks? First pitch (140 feet) Starts with a nice hand-size crack with some grass, up through a slot/bulge, fingers, etc. up to a stance w/ an old quarter incher and an angle. Second pitch (170 feet) continues up crack system, moving a little right here, a little left there, is a bit harder and more sustained.
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Deuce
Trad climber
Sonoma County, Ca
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Hey Mike I did this route last summer spending way too long on the route and i did see the imaginary bears. A rotting tree scared the crap out of me!
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ct
climber
WA
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Climbed the route 8/1/04. I didn't see the bolt for the 5th belay either, but there are several spots where you can get bomber pro for a stance belay. The spot I used was about 100 feet up the crack after the undercling traverse, (use long runners to avoid drag) right before the crack arches towards the left and starts to overhang a bit. Multiple spots there for good small nuts and up to 2 inch cams. Great route, 10d section only felt like one hard move, and the 10b section immediately after is delicate but not hard.
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outdooreric
Trad climber
Mammoth
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The bolt on the belay for pitch five is missing, but it was not needed to make a safe belay, good riddance!
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Nix
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Ran the route yesterday. Very nice. A couple comments. I'd suggest folks skip the indicated spot for the 4th belay and belay at the end of the undercling traverse (the optional belay, 0.75 cam, medium to big nuts). This avoids the wicked rope drag I encountered the first time I ran the route two years ago. Just save a few small cams. The proceeding pitch is a bit short so adding the undercling traverse is no problem. Also, I might have missed it, but I think the bold demarking the belay for the start of the 5th pitch is gone.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
The ASCA is a non-profit organization dedicated to replacing unsafe anchors. To learn about helping the ASCA click here
DONATE NOW
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vlani
Trad climber
mountain view, ca
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Great rout, the best I’ve done in the Meadows so far. Been there twice. Just couple notes from my recent run:
The first pitch has runout 5.8 face at the top that is not good for 5.8 leader if you bring in one to share leads with.
The crux (3rd) pitch easily can be stretched to small ledge about 15 ft above the exit roof and the SuperTopo recommended belay spot. This ledge is not on the topo and you can miss it as I did been tiered after that lead, looking up against the sun. You will really appreciate that ledge, as that would be the last semi-comfortable belay on the rout. The rest 2 on that climb (and the one I’ve used for the 3rd pitch) are semi-hanging.
The last 3 5.8 pitches are very enjoyable and sustained, with eventual rest spots, and eat med to large nuts. The traverse pitch is considered by some as the second crux, but knowing that it is easily protected with small cams takes the challenge away. Proper use of double ropes recommended to protect you second here.
Not knowing hand jamming may bring the last pitch into nine-ish category.
I used 2x60m ropes, full stretched only the last pitch.
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Charles
Intermediate climber
mountain view, ca
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Tried the 5.9 variation on the 5th pitch on 8/3/02, and
made the mistake of following the crack too high before
traversing left. The Reid guide does a better job of the
describing it - exit the crack when you come near the
obvious hole and keep going left and up a bit 'till
you hit the main crack. I was amazed to find several
rap slings on the "expand-o-flake", which seems totally
detached from the face.
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mike macdonald
Advanced climber
mountain view, ca
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climbed this route back in 1980 following recommendation from a valley climber. climbed on 2 x 45m ropes which proved to be a tad short in reaching a couple of the belays! the route brings back fantastic memories of tolumne climbing & remains one of the finest routes i've ever done. seem to remember being as gripped on the way back down though the forest since the light was fading fast (late start as usual..) & the imagination started seeing brown bears behind every fallen tree.
all time classic route.
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Stephanie
Intermediate climber
mountain view, ca
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With a 60m rope, you can run the 1st pitch to a comfy ledge, on the left of the crack, right where the 5.9 finger crack begins.
This ledge isn't on the SuperTopo (ST), but I bet it's big enough to seat 5 people in a row sitting cross-legged, barely touching
(not recommended, just saying it's plenty big for a climbing party). Pro is the same as you'd be carrying for the 1st pitch anyways.
From there, you can run the next pitch to where the Topo shows the 3rd belay (after the notch in the crack).
This shortens the climb to 5 pitches, with only the 2nd pitch having above-5.8 climbing (assuming you avoid the
questionable flake on pitch 4 / ST's pitch 5). The two 5.10 cruxes are very short, and the rest of the climb is beautifully
continuous 5.9 / 5.8 / 5.7. Our 3rd belay was where ST shows the alternate 4th belay, after the exposed undercling traverse.
There was already a fixed piece at the end of the traverse, to which I've now added a #10 stopper up & around the corner --
my 1st piece of abandoned gear. I don't think it should be too hard to get out if you get a comfortable stance,
but by the urging of my poor tortured feet and especially in light of the time, I decided to leave it for a better climber than I.
I'm consoling myself by figuring, if you climb enough, you can expect nuts to come & go in your life.
Our final belay station before the summit was a little hacked -- we ran it about 170' up, & he probably shouldn't have moved
out right. I hear that stance was not at all comfortable. The 5.7 wide deep crack at the very top veers quite a bit to the right,
and goes lower angle, rounding out to the top.
We found our 2nd, 3rd, & 4th belays were (semi-)hanging. I think we were particularly sensitive to it, since our feet were
miserably tortured from the previous days of climbing & wandering around on descent. Fortunately, this descent was
enjoyably straightforward. We angled up first (not sure if necessary), then around to the right, winding all the way down.
We hiked in some time around noon, and had plenty of time to eat a leisurely lunch & get a little acquainted
while watching 2 parties work their way up. They were in the shade, & it looked a bit chilly. We got full sun, and
it felt a bit draining. Perhaps starting a little earlier would've been ideal -- some shade, some sun. For us,
we started climbing as the sun fully covered the route, topped out with lovely low sun and refreshing breeze,
descended quickly, celebrated at the base, and ran out before dark. I'm by no means a speed climber, but we
stayed consistent & efficient. It was a great endurance route, especially at altitude.
Other than the 2 parties on route when we arrived, we saw no other climbers who came for this, Lucky Streaks.
And this was The Day before Labor Day! The parking lot was overflowing, but apparently all for the Regular Route.
Have fun, & if you become the better owner of my #10 Stopper, use it well, use it wisely.
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Justin Black
Mountain climber
Bishop, CA
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First of all, there's not much beta to add because the Supertopo on this route is absolutely spot on. The climbing is sustained, exquisite and wonderfully varied. I second Supertopo's caution regarding climbing the 5th pitch's 5.9 variation to the extremely questionable detached flake and the runout 5.7 face above it. The points at which the flake attaches to the main face appear barely adequate, so I would advise against using the flake as a belay/rappel anchor or falling on gear placed behind it.
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