maestro8
Trad climber
San Hoser, CA
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I wondered why this might be called "Golfer's Route" until I noticed the many golf-ball-sized knobs all the way up the wall. Even though the protection is sparse, the holds are plenty, close together and bomber.
This is a fun route to climb, even with the runout at the end of P2. It's a good exercise for the young leader's head.
We used a .75 camelot in a pocket, twice on the climb (dunno how good of a placement it makes on P2, though), and a medium nut at the roof. Could've backed up the nut with a .3/.4 camelot, but with the bolt above, there's no need to fiddle with too much gear.
I'd definitely recommend setting up a TR on P1 of Darth Vader's Revenge, just to the climber's right, after doing Golfer's. Tons of fun!
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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The American Safe Climbing Assn. may have replaced anchor bolts on this climb. To find out visit the ASCA Replacement Page
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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First pitch, two bolts total. Use a med/large stopper and a 1.5" cam at the small roof to protect. There is a bolt just over the roof. There is a set of new cold shuts at the end of the first pitch. With a 60 meter rope you can combine both pitches into one long one. There are 3 bolts on the "2nd" pitch with plenty of good knobs. The anchor at the top is one good fat bolt and a slung hole in the rock with rap rings. Not a 12 star anchor but very adequate. The way we did it was to lead the whole thing in one pitch, then the second single line raps to the ground and the other guy does a doubled rope rap to the shuts then to the ground. One rope.
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Charlie
Novice climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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P.S. It is most enjoyable to do the climb in one pitch with a 60m rope. (Don't forget another for the rappel).
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Charlie
Novice climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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This was a really fun climb. The knobs are clean and plentiful. Other than the bolts we used a single alien on the route to protect going over the bulge. The route forces concentration on foot good work. Rappel with two ropes.
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Dan
Novice climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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A set of tricams reduces the runout considerably. Aliens help, but there are several pockets that only tricams can fill. The .5, 1, and 1.5 sizes were all useful.
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Tad
Intermediate climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Minimal rack required b/c lots of open face (forget exactly...I think couple stoppers, 1 1/2 or 2 friend, another small-mid cam or two). Second pitch has a long run to it, but it's EZ knob-stepping at that point. Devious TCU placement mid-run, don't know if it'd hold a fall.
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Golfer's route is number 1.Photo: Greg Barnes
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