The Great Escape, Chapel Wall 5.11c

  
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Yosemite Valley, California USA

  • Currently 5.0/5
Sort 6 beta reports by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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Summary of All Ratings

SuperTopo Rating:   
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  • 5
  (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
  (4.5)
Your Rating:     (none)
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Oct 10, 2011 - 04:28pm
 
i only got up the first 3 pitches, onsighted 1&2, got worked on 3! hung about 6 times, super techy, hard for me to figure out but all there. The 2nd pitch is one of my favorite pitches ever, the iron cross is so fun!
Mittens

climber
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    Oct 10, 2011 - 12:41am
Actually, on second thought, I was trying to post to the Nutcracker page. This climb is a figment of my imagination, as I remember. Surreal fish Junichiro has space candy.
On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Riverside
Oct 8, 2011 - 12:41pm
 
This route actually doesn't exist. Promise. Do even think about trying it.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Oct 7, 2011 - 04:57pm
 
Yeah, this used to be a cool climb. Now you can't even get on it.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Oct 7, 2011 - 02:40pm
 
Now you've done it.
Mittens

climber
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    Oct 6, 2011 - 04:18pm
Did this last weekend after getting to the base of the rostrum only to see that the first four pitches of the route were choked with 4 parties, with another above.
What a great route! Consistently steep and intriguing climbing, surprisingly varied, and above all-fun! The Dan and Sue definitely had the vision.
I found pitch 2 to be kinda tricky and hard at 11a, with 2 distinct cruxes, revolving around the iron cross move, and working your way up a quite slopey vertical rail.

Pitch 3 was the clear crux for me, surprisingly finding it to be harder than pitch 5. Very sustained crimping, slightly difficult to read, and fairly beta intensive. I busted some very hard moves while leading, but my partner found a much easier sequence as he followed, depending on a very small, but positive foothold. This pitch definitely gives rests right where you need them.

Pitch 4 involved some fun hand traversing, followed by a short, steep prow with a finger crack, leading to a traverse on good holds over a roof, then a fun seam lieback with big footholds.

Pitch 5 was my favorite: cool exposure with pumpy climbing up locker first knuckle seams to an exiting roof at the very top. Tricky crack transitions and pumpy, steep climbing.

In all, a real unknown gem of a route with excellent rock. A nice, stress-free outing. Above all... insanely fun. Surprised you don't have to get in line for this one!
Chapel Wall - The Great Escape 5.11c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Chapel Wall overview
Photo: Chris McNamara
 
*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant information to share after a climb.