Mike Honcho
Trad climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
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The Harding Slot is 12b and a nightmare!
Caylor
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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From Rock & Ice # 15 July/August '86
cheers (and what Dr Yoho says about Stigma I resemble that remark!!)
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Mittens
climber
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enduro corner's probably dry, harding slot's probably still wet.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Anyone been up there? Thoughts on current conditions? I'm guessing the slot might be wet. Will the enduro corner be wet?
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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My friends climbed this last week and reported that the Harding Slot is dry. Sounds like whole route is dry and good to go.
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Mittens
climber
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Can anyone tell me when the slot usually dries out?
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mhosford
climber
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As of 5/6/03 the Harding slot was wet. The 1st pitch was ruthlessly wet. Thanks to Tom for the anchor overhaul.
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weekender
climber
Oaklanc CA
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A few notes: the 1oth pitch as shown on the Supertopo for Astroman actually ends ON the ledge below the final pitch, not under the roof just shy of the ledge. A 60m cord easily reaches and the belay takes 1" to 2" cams. It's more comfortable to belay (you can sit down) and haul from the ledge and very scenic.
I don't know if anyone really does a "chicken wing dyno" to get into the Harding Slot. It's tight hands/off fingers to a hand jam, and from the hand jam you pull up and knee bar into the chimney. I think most people squirm through the chimney left side in, for some reason right side in works best for me. As of 2/22/03 the route was bone dry and in perfect condition.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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YOSEMITE CONDITIONS REPORT
WEATHER
What an amazing winter! From November to March there have only been a handful or non-climbable weekends. Cragging temps have been perfect and some dry spells have been warm enough to get on the big routes. That said, this unusually incredible winter could be followed by a miserable and wet spring. You never know.
In general, climbing conditions can be pleasant during warm dry spells after the notoriously wet and cold Pacific storms pass through. High temps range in the 40-50's and lows in the 20's-30's. There are generally few climbers or tourists during this time of year so it’s a great time to visit if you get good weather and have a warm place to sleep at night.
Most south facing crags should be climbable during dry spells. Most long climbs are cold and wet but there are exceptions (Manure Pile Buttress).
CAMPING
Camp 4 is open and basically empty. It may have snow right after a storm but it generally melts out after a few days. Bring extra extra warm clothes and sleeping bags.
All other campgrounds are not crowded and should be easy to get into. Check out the camping info at the SuperTopo Yosemite page. <a href='http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/yosemite.html#yostaying'> SuperTopo Yosemite page. </a>
BEARS
The bears have been relatively well behaved this year but you should still remove all food and all things that smell or look like food from your car.
To see web cam shot of Yosemite Valley <A HREF='http://www.yosemite.org/vryos/index.htm'>click here</a>
To get a weather report for Yosemite Valley <A HREF='http://weather.yahoo.com/forecast/Yosemite_CA_US_f.html'>click here</a>
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Bob Steed
Advanced climber
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I think fast and light is the way to go. We used a 50 meter leadline and a 6mm tag/hauline to haul the pack so the second could climb unhindered (containing light jackets, water, some food, and one small headlamp) We ran the first 2 pitches together with some simalling. Start at first light at the start so you can get back down the slabs in time for pizza. I can't remember the rack exactly but I think we brought one or two each of the smallest cams and three each of cams from green or yellow alien thru a yellow camalot size and one or 2 cams in the blue #3 camalot size. On the second to the last pitch I got a little gacked since I didn't have enough larger pro for the 5.9 ow. Maybe I would bring a 3.5 camalot and another #3 for that pitch and leave them in the pack for that pitch for the next time I go up. Probably the radest climb I've ever done. Supersolid, clean, and beautiful. A great line. You only need a few 1" to 2" cams for the harding slot pitch: no big or small stuff. It will only get you stuck. A helmet might also get you stuck (we didn't bring any- the route is super clean). Also a single set of nuts with a couple of the medium-large hb aluminum offsets. We used a petzl tibloc on an oval to haul. A lot of liebacking. Probably more than on most routes of the grade. It pays to train
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Tom McMillan
Advanced climber
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I did Astroman this weekend for the fourth time. The next to last belay is very very bad and needs to have the existing bolts pulled and replaced, but I had neither kit nor time to do that. Also, I could swear that a foothold is missing on the last pitch, just where you pass the one fixed pin, so you are better off staying just a bit to the left initially or there is a good chance you will break your leg or worst. If you stay left initially you can get a piece in but it is still very dangerous. However since most people will tend to go straight up, if it could be done without a lynching, that would be another good place for a bolt or a drilled angle piton!
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Astroman takes a brilliant steep and clean line.Photo: Chris McNamara
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*What is "Route Beta"?
It's climber slang for information or tips on a route as in, "what's
the beta on that route?" As a service to fellow climbers we ask SuperTopo
guidebook users to post tips and updates to this website if they have relevant
information to share after a climb.
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anchor at the base of the Enduro
