redsolarearth
climber
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medium rockfall 3/12/11. While rapping down in the dark, a horrifying sound and rocks and dust. I am never climbing on Glacier Point Apron again.
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SuperTopo
Alert!
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CAUTION: The Grack is located to the north of a huge rock fall that took place on Glacier Point Apron in spring of 1998. Another serious rockfall occured on the northwest section of the Apron in Summer of 1999 which killed a climber.
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Isaac
Trad climber
Concord, CA
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Tim, Dan (from the Cragmont Climbing Club) and I climbed this route on Sat. 4-26-03. The route was dry even after a stormy Friday.
Great route to practice finger cracks and some nice friction moves.
The top of the last pich use mostly small pieces. Two ropes are great to rapel from the chains over "Marginal" Whatch out with the roof when rappeling!
In general a great route.
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dougs510
Trad climber
Concord, CA
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I did the route with a new friend from camp 4. There are lots of people climbing here regardless of the rockfall danger. We did the route in 2 pitches. I led the first up past the tree to about 20 feet into the crack. I belayed just as the crack went into parellel spliters using three cams (I think about .5 to #1 worked). Fran finished up the climb on a full rope length of hand crack and easy face towards the end.
The decent is two raps (two 60m ropes) straight down using the rap bolts found on the face.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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climbed this route last week. much fun was had and we couldn't have asked for better weather, I dare say it was balmy (and uncrowded!). I noticed the rap slings (all 8 million of them..) on the left were questionable ("hey, lets back up this crappy sling on the rotted bay tree by slinging the other rotted bay tree..") The crux face moves were cake with tons of pro below.
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Jim
climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Guidebook says three raps with a pair of 60's. You can do it in two, with about 8 feet of 2nd-3rd class down-walking at the base. Just aim for the lone cedar at the base of the route on your second rap. And watch your rope-ends.
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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a supertopo user sent me this note:
I suggest a stronger caution be given about rockfall. At about 11am, on July 12, a car size (small house size?) rockfall occurred, to the left of the route. I was at the first belay, having brought up a second, and in the process of belaying up a third climber. A number of our group were waiting at the base of the climb. No one was injured, although pebble sized debris from the impact did hit a number of our group. Those at the base, immediately moved down the access trail to safety, I lowered one climber, and we rapped to the base immediately following. Had anyone been walking along the base to our left (facing the cliff), there would likely have been fatalities. Fortunately, all of our group were safe and unharmed. It was a dramatic first climbing experience in the Valley, though. Your caution about rock fall in the area and reference web page had alerted us to the rock fall issue, and a ranger we spoke with afterwards recommended staying away from Glacier Point Apron. I would suggest a much stronger alert about rock fall danger.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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yep, rockfall danger... all around you...
This climb is a wonderful climb, too bad it is at ground zero for the bombardment-du-epoch... unbelievable splitter crack on a relatively low angle face. Giggled the whole way up. Then you get to rap past Marginal and check that out... whoa Nelly thin.
Two ropes are most efficient for the descent.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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How is rockfall in this area in the last couple of years??
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Chris McNamara
SuperTopo staff member
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Trip report with photos here
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=946644
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Floyd Hayes
Trad climber
Hidden Valley Lake, CA
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To get up this FAST (reducing risk of rockfall), consider simulclimbing, at least for the first two pitches. The leader can lead the first two pitches without pausing to belay after pitch 1 while the follower simulclimbs on pitch 1. Pitch 1 is easy class 4 until near the top and there is no way the follower is going to fall, so simulclimbing here is as safe as it gets. Once atop pitch 2 the leader can belay the follower at the crux of the climb (a tricky move for 5.6) near the top of pitch 1.
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sharon
Trad climber
Bay Area, CA
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Hey, we had to bail after P1 today due to the hail and rain (in May!), leaving significant gear - 2 stoppers, an orange TCU and various 'biners. If you're in the area and willing to grab it, I'd be totally stoked to hear from you. s.flygirl@gmail.com
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JTele
Trad climber
Pollock Pines, CA
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Approach listed in "Free Climbs" is semi confusing and exposes you to danger of rockfall while hiking along the base and of sliding rocks down to hikers behind you. To shorten approach directly to the Grack and nearby routes follow hikers trail listed in guidebook for apprx. 1/4 mile to a small A-frame shack and a fire pit surrounded by log benches. Turn immediately right at benches and look for large cairn at base of drainage. From drainage follow switchbacks up to the base of trail that leads right to Goodrich Pinnacle. At this trail turn left and you will find yourself at the base of The Grack. This should shorten your approach on steep terrain to at least 5-7 minutes and the trail to and from the parking lot is flat as a pancake.
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Park
Trad climber
Reno
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The Grack Center (5.6) is a nice route, especially if you enjoy slab climbing. On the 1st pitch climb up an easy 4th class gully and then traverse right under a bulge and then climb up a notch in the 5.6 bulge. Climb another 25-30 ft until you reach a small ledge at the base of the splitter crack. Then set up a gear anchor. The 2nd pitch climbs a fun 5.6 splitter crack that moves up and right with good pro. Set up a gear anchor near the top of the wide pod. The 3rd pitch climbs very thin cracks with some weeds growing in the left thin cracks and then you reach a small shelf. The rest of the 3rd pitch is runout (trust your feet) friction smearing with no pro. If you're not used to friction slab climbing in Yosemite the last part of the 3rd pitch can be unnerving and heady.
At the top are great views, especially of Washington's Column. All in all it's a good route!
Enjoy!
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